Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Radio (07/04/14)

Radio is the restaurant that we would have thrown overboard had we stayed a day fewer in Copenhagen, and it was by far our favorite lunch.  Adam pondered whether it was better than any of the dinners, but I think it's impossible to declare greater talent in a delightful but shorter lunch -- with a heavy emphasis on grilled greens in every savory course -- than in the complexity and range of an extensive tasting menu.  I would be interested to see what they do for dinner, though.  (There was no menu -- our server reeled off that day's five dishes -- so I ended up taking notes during the meal that were easily turned into this post.)

At the server's recommendation, we both had (two) glasses of a Elbling (Trocken) from Mosel -- a lovely light wine from a grape that I'd never before heard of.  Will definitely have to try to track it down.

Radishes, rose petals, and whipped cream made for a pretty little salad amuse.  The unsweetened cream, which wasn't stiff like the dessert whipped cream that the description evokes, dressed the raw radishes with a bit of light richness.

Yet another great bread-and-butter pairing; this time, sourdough with caramelized onion butter.  Yum.

Our first course was also the best -- truly excellent.  (The savories came in reverse-order of how much we liked them, although we liked them all a lot.)  The small sea scallops were described as "fried," but this oft-repeated description appeared to mean just pan fried/seared.  The "fried" cucumber -- I think I've had something similar before? -- was surprising and good, and not mushy.  The grilled seaweed was delicious, while mussels foam added a delicate brininess, berries (I think lingonberries?) provided great acidity, and seaweed powder (which Adam accurately described as nori-esque) provided some extra umami oomph.

The Son of Man has a drink?

Raw mackerel was fishy but good with the various other elements of the dish, including lemon, grilled lettuce, and (not super crisp) fried parsley.  Whey foam from butter added slight sourness, dried black olives provided spots of saltiness, and parsley puree brightened.

Seared (again described as "fried") squid replaced chicken in the last savory, which was a nice accommodation for a restaurant that had no advance notice of our restrictions and only does a very limited menu (we ordered everything).  The tasty combination of grilled cabbage, apple foam, and chives tasted like a lightened version of Germanic cabbage and apple.  (As you can see, I demolished most of this dish before remembering that I hadn't photographed it.  But all the dishes had a similar look -- the seafood mostly hidden by some sort of grilled green and white foam.)

Swedish cow's milk cheese, lingonberry gel, lemon verbena.  Delicious but basic.

This may have been the only meal where strawberries weren't green.  Sweet pickled strawberries, strawberry sorbet, pine shoots, pine oil, lemon verbena crackers.  The pine shoots and crackers were both interesting, unfamiliar but well-paired with strawberries.  Summery and light, a lovely end to the meal.

The perfect pre-Noma lunch -- some really great dishes that didn't leave us feeling too weighed down to look forward to dinner (helped by a walk back to the hotel).


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